Come alive on a short break to the chic French capital, says Andrew Sanger

First time or fiftieth, the thrill is the same. Walk out of the Gare du Nord, now hardly 2 1/2 hours from London, and it hits you. There’s passion in the air, a feeling that this is what life is really about. Whether for romance or shopping, culture or fun, Paris is perfect.

The city has wonderful restaurants and food shops, grand avenues and vistas, as well as dazzling museums, and modem buildings. There’s magic, too, in the way everyone looks so chic. It’s like walking onto a film set.

For a backstage view, go to a street market such as the one on Rue Mouffetard where traiteurs sell ready-made dishes for a low-priced gourmet lunch.

Stylish Rue du Faubourg St Honoré is lined with designer stores, while Boulevard Haussmann’s grands magasins, Printcmps and Galeries Lafayette, make shopping easy. Fashionistas should visit the newest museum, opening in March — Fondation Yves Saint Laurent Pierre Bergé (5 avenue Marceau).

Prefer to laze on a beach? “Paris Plage” returns this summer,when 3km of riverside is transformed into a Riviera lookalike with palm trees, live bands, ice cream vendors and even sand.

Don’t scorn the city’s classic tourist sights; Sacré Coeur, Montmartre, a cruise on the Seine are sheer delight. After dark, the Eiffel Tower becomes La Tour scintillante, lit by 20,000 bulbs.

For spectacle, book a seat for a show at the glitzy Lido, or enjoy a simpler night at a Val de Maine guinguette such as Le Petit Robinson at Joinville-le-Pont. At these traditional dinner-dance halls you’ve left film-set Paris, and wandered into a painting by Renoir.

Paris breaks usually offer trips to explore the historic Ile de France region around the capital. Louis XIV’s Versailles is unmissable. More touching is Auvers-sur-Oise, where Vincent Van Gogh spent his last months; he is buried here beside his loyal brother, Theo.

For Paris and Ile de France breaks by Travelscene (0870 777 4445), Inntravel (01653 617 788), Eurodestination (08707 442 211), visit www.holidayfrance.org.uk

Reprinted from The Sunday Times of January 11th 2004